If seaside promenades could talk, Beirut’s Corniche would have plenty to narrate. Once buzzing with careless beachgoers and Mediterranean waves, the boardwalk has been witness to everything from civil war to broken dreams.

It’s hard not to notice the group of heavily-tanned men, young and old, congregating around what appears to be an infinity pool backdropped by snow-capped mountains and freshly built skyscrapers.

They talk about their love for the sun and sea. Some apply tanning oils, others prefer carrot creams. Some shave their legs, others boast hairy chests. Some play racquetball, others bet on cards. Some worship the Prophet, others swear by Jesus. There’s no right or wrong, no one is judging. They feel free here, on the edge of their broken country.